North America
El Salvador
Surf towns and volcano country, where “dangerous” turned out to mostly mean “unfamiliar.”
Read the piece →Journal
More than an itinerary. Each entry holds the route I actually walked, the hikes that undid me, the strangers who turned into friends, and the way a place quietly left me changed. Newest first, working back to where it all began.
North America
Surf towns and volcano country, where “dangerous” turned out to mostly mean “unfamiliar.”
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North America
Lake Atitlán at dawn, and markets that keep their own unhurried sense of time.
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North America
Colonial Granada, then a ferry to Ometepe and its two volcanoes rising from the lake.
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South America
South America
Patagonian wind that pushes back, and the towers of Torres del Paine at first light.
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South America
Antarctica
The seventh continent — where the penguins outnumbered the people and the silence had weight.
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South America
Slow coastal towns and mate passed between strangers — the least hurried country I’ve walked.
Read the piece →Ancient Athens, hidden coves in Milos, and the caldera of Santorini — a whirlwind Cyclades odyssey.
Read the piece →The equator and the Andes — my first real taste of high-altitude solo hiking.
Read the piece →Cartagena’s color and Medellín’s reinvention — nothing like the headlines.
Read the piece →Cusco to Huaraz: a whirlwind of misty citadels, desert dunes, and glacial lakes across the Andes.
Read the piece →The Ring Road, end to end: waterfalls you can walk behind, geothermal fields, and icebergs drifting past the shore.
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